Wandering the Driftless: Locally Sourced Lemonade

A close-up of a sumac plant with vibrant green leaves and clusters of red flower spikes against a natural background.
Staghorn Sumac, a familiar plant and source of a great summer treat. Photo contributed by John Cler.

The Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) is a familiar plant across the Driftless Area. These small trees grow readily along roadsides and open areas, often in clusters. It is a member of the cashew family and spreads by seeds and sprouting from the roots of established trees.

Stems and branches were used by early settlers to collect maple sap for making syrup. Sumac stems contain a soft pith that is easily removed, producing a hollow wooden tube. Maple trees were “tapped” by using a drill to reach the sapwood carrying sugary sap moving upward from the roots in the spring. A short, hollowed sumac branch was inserted in the hole to allow the sap to drip into a bucket waiting below. 

The sumac flowers appear as loose clusters of white blossoms in the spring. As summer progresses, the loose clusters begin to turn to green to pink and eventually morph into a tight conical cluster of red, hairy seeds by mid-summer. The appearance of the red clusters is a signal that it is time for some “sumac lemonade”. 

The reddish hairs surrounding each seed contain malic acid, the same sour ingredient found in green apples. Licking a single sumac seed from a cluster will indicate whether the malic acid is still present. Malic acid is water soluble and is eventually washed out by rain water. A positive test for malic acid means you have the makings for a great summer treat. 

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Gather several of the clusters and place them in a container with enough cold water to cover them. Use your hands to agitate the clusters and break them up. Do this for several minutes. Allow them to soak for an additional twenty minutes. Strain the liquid through a clean cloth to remove seeds, branches and hairs. The sumac lemonade is ready to be sampled and sweetened to taste. 

There is a Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix) that has white berries and grows in swamps, so there is no danger in mis-identifying the Staghorn Sumac. Individuals with a severe allergy to cashews may want to avoid sumac lemonade, however. 

Making sumac lemonade is a great activity to share with children and adults. It is a great treat and will get those involved looking for the local sumac clusters each year.


John Cler is a retired high school science teacher and principal residing in Richland Center. He is an avid hunter, fisher, trapper and nature nut. He currently chairs the Richland County Deer Advisory Council and the Richland County Delegation of the Wisconsin Conservation Congress.


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